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Hacienda \åsyen’da\
[Spanish] 1. a large estate in present or formerly Spanish-speaking
countries. 2. a farm, a ranch dwelling typically with
low rambling buildings and wide porches.
Cusín \koo-zeen\
[Quichua] 1a. an Indian chief who valiantly defended
his culture. 1b. A derivation of cuso, an edible beetle.
2. a mountain in Northern Ecuador. 3. a place of tranquility
with fine food, gardens, pastoral walks and horseback
riding. A special place for travelers. 4. a hacienda
in San Pablo del Lago, Ecuador. 5. verb, to valiantly
uphold a belief, e.g. I Cusín, therefore I am. Cusíner.
Hacienda Cusín was purchased in
Spain in 1602 by the prominent Luna family at an auction
from Philip II, King of Spain. The estate comprised
the two valleys of Gualavi and La Rinconada, and all
the land between the valleys and the lake. The property
amounted to approximately 100,000 acres, held until
its divisions in 1945 and 1964.
The Hacienda was named for the mountain,
Cusín, at the head of the valley of La Rinconada. The
source of the mountain’s name is difficult to
ascertain, although two possibilities are likely. First,
tradition has it that Cusín was the name of an indigenous
chief who fought against the Incas in the first decades
of the 16th century, just before the Spaniards’arrival.
The second possibility pertains to a type of white beetle
that appears two days every November. Considered a delicacy,
the insect is prominent in this immediate area, lending
it some fame. In Quichua the beetle is called cuso (cut-so),
and it is possible that it has given its name to the
area. Cusín’s coat of arms, found on all dishware
and stationery, has been modeled after the cuso.
During the last 400 years, Hacienda Cusín remained,
for the most part, in the hands of two different Spanish
families. Cusín was operated as a farm until converted
into a hotel by Eugene Metz, a North American who married
into the Chiriboga family that held ownership of Cusín.
The PanAmerican Highway had not yet been built, and
the Quito to Otavalo journey took serveral hours. During
this period, the artisan market opened for only a few
hours early Saturday morning, and house-guests were
apt to stay for long periods. These over-stays inspired
the need for a hotel.
In 1966 Metz began building the
Main House on the spot where the grain storage shed
had been. Guests were then charged 35 Sucres (approximately
$4) per night with dinner. All 14 guestrooms were furnished
with antiques. Black tie was obligatory eveningwear,
and pre-dinner entertainment included a piano rendition
of a Broadway musical, followed by a procession of servants
leading wild animals into the dining room. The animals
were kept in the barred cages in the lower part of today’s
library patio.
In 1970, when tourists were rare,
Metz sold the hotel, ending three centuries of ownership
by the Chiriboga family. The Creightons, the new owners,
attempted to build a rose plantation, sold all of the
surrounding land, and allowed Cusín to fall into disrepair.
By 1990, the rutted-earth approach
to Hacienda Cusín, lined by collapsing adobe walls,
was frequently flooded. Cusín, an ambient trash-heap
with 14 odious rooms, serveral with jerry-built bathrooms
in the corners, was a challenge to behold. Aged and
diseased horses trampled the gardens. Most of the paths,
if not cracked cement, were earthen and poorly drained.
The sparsely equipped kitchen, a third of the size of
that today, was a maze of small rooms with ceilings
on the verge of collapsing. The new owners of the almost
defunt neighboring rose plantation understandably cut
off Cusín’s open sewers. A late 19th century wind-up
telephone was connected to the ‘outside world’
by an autocratic San Pablo operator, straight out of
Dylan Thomas’s Under Milk Wood.
The dining room, lit by two large
bulbs, had only one far-end window, and its small folkloric
chairs fell over when guests stood up. Salon Bolivar
was barely furnished and sun shone through tattered
curtains nailed to the ceiling.
The Creightons sold Cusín
in 1990 to the present owner, Nicholas Millhouse, who
began the exciting and ambitious project of refurbishing
the buildings, restoring the landscape, and constructing
beautiful additions. With an eye on international tourism,
Millhouse resurrected the Hosteria’s original
name, Hacienda Cusín. The 1993 New York Times
Travel & Leisure reviews of Cusín, followed
by those of guidebooks, newspapers and international
magazines dramatically increased occupancy. As a result,
the additional income provided capital for necessary
construction and for additional staff. Purchase of land
in Gualavi valley gave space for Cusín’s
horses and crops for the ktichen. The construction of
El Monasterio in December 1995 provides additional space
for guests, conferences, weddings and seasonal festivities.
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